So far in Uganda, I have learned that my host father Caesar only fears five things.
1)Snakes
2)Crocodiles
3)Bees
4)Water (Victoria/Nile, not bottled)
5) Swings
Anyways, rafting on the Nile on Saturday was amazing. Beautiful and exhausting as well. I got some nice sunburn and tasted the most delicious pineapple I've ever had. Also, 0ur raft only flipped 2x during the 30 km journey through 12 large rapids.
Yesterday was my farewell dinner at Skills Plus. The other FSD interns were invited and we all were sporting our best "African" garb (yes, the Kanzu was worn). I was asked to give a speech, answered two questions by the chief financier (most annoying and most pleasurable experiences at Skills Plus), listened to many Ugandans talk, and ate very good Ugandan food.
The kind old lady who lives at the organization (85!) gave me a mat she had sewn personally by hand. People here are too kind.
In other news, while wearing the Kanzu i don't fear to move at night alone. People still stare, but it's more in awe. "Very smart" whispers and not whispers follow me as I footed around Bugembe in my Kanzu.
Additionally, I recently set minesweeper records at all levels on the new computer. My legacy at Skills Plus?
Witchdoctor session canceled. Otherwise things are moving. Don't know if I can update before leaving, but I will try. Expect an update once I safely (I hope) arrive back in the U.S.
Did you know "safari" means "journey" in Swahili? Well, my next safari begins Saturday. The days are moving...
Tuesday, August 12, 2008
Friday, August 8, 2008
Mormons in Uganda?
Yes, there are Mormons in Uganda. I learned this the first week after walking by their large and rather nice church in Jinja (It is still the only place I've seen in Uganda with a basketball court). However, other than a random run-in with a youth carry a "Book of Mormon" one almost forgot they are in Uganda. This contrast sharply with the "born agains" (evangelical Christians) who are growing rapidly and seem to be everywhere in Bugembe.
Anyways, the presence of the Church of Latter Day Saints in Uganda became much more important this week when Skills Plus learned that the Church's Humanitarian Services are contributing over 5.5 million Ushs (over $3,000 USD) to support Skills Plus' tailoring program. Shit, I'm impressed.
On the ground, power is back, but still horrible. It returned Wednesday, promptly stopped working most of Thursday, returned Friday, ran away for 5 hours, and then returned just before the end of the day. I still can't decide whether it's better to know you aren't going to have power and deal with it (July 15-August 5) or to think you're going to have power all day and only have it for 3 hours...
Also, I've learned that my host mother, Lydia, hasn't received a full paycheck since last October. She works at a local private school and apparently the directors of the school just take money from the school to suite their own purposes. Naturally funds run short and the staff get shafted. And apparently the job market in Uganda is so bad that the teachers can't just leave because there are no other jobs to find. Lydia also described how she had applied for a job in Kampala a few years ago, made it through 3 rounds of interviews and was told she had the job - as long as she was willing to "act like a Ugandan" (Lydia's words, not mine) and give the interviewer 2.7 million Ushs. She didn't have the money and the man decided to rip up here employment letter - no job. This is absurd. How are people here not angrier?
More News?
So, my flash drive (jumpdrive? What is the proper name of this thing?) picked up several Ugandan viruses. They have been taken care of (I hope) but the culprit is still at large and maurading.
Also, my boss sent me a pineapple gift through facebook. Ah technology.
I started War and Peace yesterday. 73 pages in. 1300 to go.
More Witchcraft stories:
-I heard one about Kenyan Ghost women who like to trick and seduce Ugandan Males.
-Another one was about a cursed pineapple that talked and caused sickness when people looked at it.
-In both stories, the storyteller assured me, "I was a witness".
-This statement reminded me of LBJ, "We are all witnesses".
On Sunday, I made a visit to the palace of the Chappazinga (Busoga King). Kind of deserted and eerie. I ducked under a gate and roamed about the place. Pretty sweet but it looked more like ruins than a palace under construction (I think building has been delayed several years, maybe decades?)
Also, the other day a man asked me if I had a girlfriend (unusual question, usually only old women ask this) and then told me that when I return to Uganda I need to receive a village welcome. He then proceeded to describe how in a village welcome they would take all the virgins from the village and offer the visitor his choice from the lot. I'm still unsure whether this was a historical description or an offer for the future...
Finally, I was complimented on my shoes today. Told they make the dust look like polish. Then the woman told me to shave.
Pool Update:
Wednesday was 3W, 1L. Thursday was 1 L. Friday? We'll see in a few minutes...
Schedule of Events:
Saturday is rafting on the Nile (Bilharzia anyone?). Monday is my farewell dinner at Skills Plus (Kanzu!). Tuesday, a learning session with a witch doctor (how does everyone here believe this?). Thursday, a farewell dinner with all the host parents and FSD interns (repeat of the Masala fries!). And Saturday is the beginning of my fun fun journey back to the U.S. (55 hours!)
Sula Bulungi!
Anyways, the presence of the Church of Latter Day Saints in Uganda became much more important this week when Skills Plus learned that the Church's Humanitarian Services are contributing over 5.5 million Ushs (over $3,000 USD) to support Skills Plus' tailoring program. Shit, I'm impressed.
On the ground, power is back, but still horrible. It returned Wednesday, promptly stopped working most of Thursday, returned Friday, ran away for 5 hours, and then returned just before the end of the day. I still can't decide whether it's better to know you aren't going to have power and deal with it (July 15-August 5) or to think you're going to have power all day and only have it for 3 hours...
Also, I've learned that my host mother, Lydia, hasn't received a full paycheck since last October. She works at a local private school and apparently the directors of the school just take money from the school to suite their own purposes. Naturally funds run short and the staff get shafted. And apparently the job market in Uganda is so bad that the teachers can't just leave because there are no other jobs to find. Lydia also described how she had applied for a job in Kampala a few years ago, made it through 3 rounds of interviews and was told she had the job - as long as she was willing to "act like a Ugandan" (Lydia's words, not mine) and give the interviewer 2.7 million Ushs. She didn't have the money and the man decided to rip up here employment letter - no job. This is absurd. How are people here not angrier?
More News?
So, my flash drive (jumpdrive? What is the proper name of this thing?) picked up several Ugandan viruses. They have been taken care of (I hope) but the culprit is still at large and maurading.
Also, my boss sent me a pineapple gift through facebook. Ah technology.
I started War and Peace yesterday. 73 pages in. 1300 to go.
More Witchcraft stories:
-I heard one about Kenyan Ghost women who like to trick and seduce Ugandan Males.
-Another one was about a cursed pineapple that talked and caused sickness when people looked at it.
-In both stories, the storyteller assured me, "I was a witness".
-This statement reminded me of LBJ, "We are all witnesses".
On Sunday, I made a visit to the palace of the Chappazinga (Busoga King). Kind of deserted and eerie. I ducked under a gate and roamed about the place. Pretty sweet but it looked more like ruins than a palace under construction (I think building has been delayed several years, maybe decades?)
Also, the other day a man asked me if I had a girlfriend (unusual question, usually only old women ask this) and then told me that when I return to Uganda I need to receive a village welcome. He then proceeded to describe how in a village welcome they would take all the virgins from the village and offer the visitor his choice from the lot. I'm still unsure whether this was a historical description or an offer for the future...
Finally, I was complimented on my shoes today. Told they make the dust look like polish. Then the woman told me to shave.
Pool Update:
Wednesday was 3W, 1L. Thursday was 1 L. Friday? We'll see in a few minutes...
Schedule of Events:
Saturday is rafting on the Nile (Bilharzia anyone?). Monday is my farewell dinner at Skills Plus (Kanzu!). Tuesday, a learning session with a witch doctor (how does everyone here believe this?). Thursday, a farewell dinner with all the host parents and FSD interns (repeat of the Masala fries!). And Saturday is the beginning of my fun fun journey back to the U.S. (55 hours!)
Sula Bulungi!
Monday, August 4, 2008
Jesus Whispers
The title of this post was supposed to be, "Kampala, Kampala, Kampala" (A testament to the many taxi drivers yelling at me during my first 7 weeks). However, circumstances change and I am forced to adapt.
It started when I wore a Kanzu maybe 3 weeks ago. Apparently while wearing this (without the necessary coat) I look like what Ugandans think of when they think of Jesus. Then later I showed pictures of me in a Kanzu to my host family and they confirmed these suspicions.
A few weeks passed, there were no further comments and I felt like the 'fad' had passed. However, last Friday I was walking by a nearby school and passed 5 kids on the road. Rather than chanting Mzungu as I pass (which would be normal) I instead hear rapid whispers about a "Jesus" looking figure passing them. Trying not to smirk I continued walking.
Now while it was pretty funny in the moment, in retrospect I have mixed feelings. The fact that many Ugandans' conception of the son of God as a White American (with a beard) of British and German heritage is slightly bothersome.
So anyways, Kampala. I stayed in a tent at a nice little place titled the "Red Chili Hideaway". It had some sweet pictures of some 20 types of chili peppers, but no salsa. A pity.
The gates for the Wyclef Jean concert opened at 6:00 and we went in around 7:30. Before entering, we (I was with 4 other FSD interns) explored some of Kampala (boda boda rides in Kampala are a mixture of terrifying nightmares and joyful bliss) and found a surprisingly wealthy complex near the concert, called Lugogo Square. It would fit right into any major U.S. city, whether it be in Ohio or California. Nice restaurants, a real supermarket (the only one I've seen in Uganda), and a neat little coffee shop. I even saw some Mercedes-Benz and BMWs in the parking lot. I guess there ARE some pretty wealthy Ugandans.
The cell phone company "Zain" sponsored the concert and thus, from 7:30 until 11 we had the joy of watching one long Zain commercial, with short music interludes. During these breaks, music was played from speakers or local music artists yelled about things. In the meantime we got to watch Zain and Celtel (the phone company Zain just bought) commercials, hear their spokesmen (and women) speak, and watch satellite videos of Zain events in 14 African countries. Did I mention I got a "free" Zain T-shirt!
Anyways, the first artist listed (DJ Benny D) started at 11. He wasn't bad but he was too obsessed with fire (he kept using a lighter and some kind of aerosol can to spay flames...I felt like I was 14 again). Wyclef began around 12:30 AM. He was good though he definitely ran around way too much without a shirt and with his pants falling down. Things ended about 2 AM, making for a pretty good concert.
I also had the lovely experience of having my butt touched (discretely of course) the entire night by hopeful pickpockets searching for a wallet. One little man was bold enough (i think he thought I was distracted?) to try to reach into one of my front pockets. I quickly told him no no no this wasn't going to happen (he was perhaps 12 inches shorter than me so it wasn't too difficult. He left quickly). I also got to see 4-5 fights (between Ugandans) almost break out. Apparently it wasn't only Mzungus targeted and Ugandans don't like it when people try to steal from them...
Saturday we met up for lunch with Jenna and Robby (ND person i just met...We invade this country). Indian food was good, but Taj in SB is better.
Overall, I really enjoyed my visit and am glad I went. But I'm also very glad I don't live there. It's no Columbus. Kampala is overcrowded, dirty, hectic, and the inequality is breathtaking. Lugogo Square (as nice as many places in the U.S.) is only a few km from some of the worst slums. Hard to see. Would be hard to live there.
Pictures! but download time is very very slow. Here is Jon in a full Kanzu (non Jesus):
Here is Jesus? Thoughts?
Peace.
It started when I wore a Kanzu maybe 3 weeks ago. Apparently while wearing this (without the necessary coat) I look like what Ugandans think of when they think of Jesus. Then later I showed pictures of me in a Kanzu to my host family and they confirmed these suspicions.
A few weeks passed, there were no further comments and I felt like the 'fad' had passed. However, last Friday I was walking by a nearby school and passed 5 kids on the road. Rather than chanting Mzungu as I pass (which would be normal) I instead hear rapid whispers about a "Jesus" looking figure passing them. Trying not to smirk I continued walking.
Now while it was pretty funny in the moment, in retrospect I have mixed feelings. The fact that many Ugandans' conception of the son of God as a White American (with a beard) of British and German heritage is slightly bothersome.
So anyways, Kampala. I stayed in a tent at a nice little place titled the "Red Chili Hideaway". It had some sweet pictures of some 20 types of chili peppers, but no salsa. A pity.
The gates for the Wyclef Jean concert opened at 6:00 and we went in around 7:30. Before entering, we (I was with 4 other FSD interns) explored some of Kampala (boda boda rides in Kampala are a mixture of terrifying nightmares and joyful bliss) and found a surprisingly wealthy complex near the concert, called Lugogo Square. It would fit right into any major U.S. city, whether it be in Ohio or California. Nice restaurants, a real supermarket (the only one I've seen in Uganda), and a neat little coffee shop. I even saw some Mercedes-Benz and BMWs in the parking lot. I guess there ARE some pretty wealthy Ugandans.
The cell phone company "Zain" sponsored the concert and thus, from 7:30 until 11 we had the joy of watching one long Zain commercial, with short music interludes. During these breaks, music was played from speakers or local music artists yelled about things. In the meantime we got to watch Zain and Celtel (the phone company Zain just bought) commercials, hear their spokesmen (and women) speak, and watch satellite videos of Zain events in 14 African countries. Did I mention I got a "free" Zain T-shirt!
Anyways, the first artist listed (DJ Benny D) started at 11. He wasn't bad but he was too obsessed with fire (he kept using a lighter and some kind of aerosol can to spay flames...I felt like I was 14 again). Wyclef began around 12:30 AM. He was good though he definitely ran around way too much without a shirt and with his pants falling down. Things ended about 2 AM, making for a pretty good concert.
I also had the lovely experience of having my butt touched (discretely of course) the entire night by hopeful pickpockets searching for a wallet. One little man was bold enough (i think he thought I was distracted?) to try to reach into one of my front pockets. I quickly told him no no no this wasn't going to happen (he was perhaps 12 inches shorter than me so it wasn't too difficult. He left quickly). I also got to see 4-5 fights (between Ugandans) almost break out. Apparently it wasn't only Mzungus targeted and Ugandans don't like it when people try to steal from them...
Saturday we met up for lunch with Jenna and Robby (ND person i just met...We invade this country). Indian food was good, but Taj in SB is better.
Overall, I really enjoyed my visit and am glad I went. But I'm also very glad I don't live there. It's no Columbus. Kampala is overcrowded, dirty, hectic, and the inequality is breathtaking. Lugogo Square (as nice as many places in the U.S.) is only a few km from some of the worst slums. Hard to see. Would be hard to live there.
Pictures! but download time is very very slow. Here is Jon in a full Kanzu (non Jesus):
Here is Jesus? Thoughts?
Peace.
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