Jesus Whispers

The title of this post was supposed to be, "Kampala, Kampala, Kampala" (A testament to the many taxi drivers yelling at me during my first 7 weeks). However, circumstances change and I am forced to adapt.

It started when I wore a Kanzu maybe 3 weeks ago. Apparently while wearing this (without the necessary coat) I look like what Ugandans think of when they think of Jesus. Then later I showed pictures of me in a Kanzu to my host family and they confirmed these suspicions.

A few weeks passed, there were no further comments and I felt like the 'fad' had passed. However, last Friday I was walking by a nearby school and passed 5 kids on the road. Rather than chanting Mzungu as I pass (which would be normal) I instead hear rapid whispers about a "Jesus" looking figure passing them. Trying not to smirk I continued walking.

Now while it was pretty funny in the moment, in retrospect I have mixed feelings. The fact that many Ugandans' conception of the son of God as a White American (with a beard) of British and German heritage is slightly bothersome.

So anyways, Kampala. I stayed in a tent at a nice little place titled the "Red Chili Hideaway". It had some sweet pictures of some 20 types of chili peppers, but no salsa. A pity.

The gates for the Wyclef Jean concert opened at 6:00 and we went in around 7:30. Before entering, we (I was with 4 other FSD interns) explored some of Kampala (boda boda rides in Kampala are a mixture of terrifying nightmares and joyful bliss) and found a surprisingly wealthy complex near the concert, called Lugogo Square. It would fit right into any major U.S. city, whether it be in Ohio or California. Nice restaurants, a real supermarket (the only one I've seen in Uganda), and a neat little coffee shop. I even saw some Mercedes-Benz and BMWs in the parking lot. I guess there ARE some pretty wealthy Ugandans.

The cell phone company "Zain" sponsored the concert and thus, from 7:30 until 11 we had the joy of watching one long Zain commercial, with short music interludes. During these breaks, music was played from speakers or local music artists yelled about things. In the meantime we got to watch Zain and Celtel (the phone company Zain just bought) commercials, hear their spokesmen (and women) speak, and watch satellite videos of Zain events in 14 African countries. Did I mention I got a "free" Zain T-shirt!

Anyways, the first artist listed (DJ Benny D) started at 11. He wasn't bad but he was too obsessed with fire (he kept using a lighter and some kind of aerosol can to spay flames...I felt like I was 14 again). Wyclef began around 12:30 AM. He was good though he definitely ran around way too much without a shirt and with his pants falling down. Things ended about 2 AM, making for a pretty good concert.

I also had the lovely experience of having my butt touched (discretely of course) the entire night by hopeful pickpockets searching for a wallet. One little man was bold enough (i think he thought I was distracted?) to try to reach into one of my front pockets. I quickly told him no no no this wasn't going to happen (he was perhaps 12 inches shorter than me so it wasn't too difficult. He left quickly). I also got to see 4-5 fights (between Ugandans) almost break out. Apparently it wasn't only Mzungus targeted and Ugandans don't like it when people try to steal from them...

Saturday we met up for lunch with Jenna and Robby (ND person i just met...We invade this country). Indian food was good, but Taj in SB is better.

Overall, I really enjoyed my visit and am glad I went. But I'm also very glad I don't live there. It's no Columbus. Kampala is overcrowded, dirty, hectic, and the inequality is breathtaking. Lugogo Square (as nice as many places in the U.S.) is only a few km from some of the worst slums. Hard to see. Would be hard to live there.

Pictures! but download time is very very slow. Here is Jon in a full Kanzu (non Jesus):


Here is Jesus? Thoughts?




Peace.