So far in Uganda, I have learned that my host father Caesar only fears five things.
1)Snakes
2)Crocodiles
3)Bees
4)Water (Victoria/Nile, not bottled)
5) Swings
Anyways, rafting on the Nile on Saturday was amazing. Beautiful and exhausting as well. I got some nice sunburn and tasted the most delicious pineapple I've ever had. Also, 0ur raft only flipped 2x during the 30 km journey through 12 large rapids.
Yesterday was my farewell dinner at Skills Plus. The other FSD interns were invited and we all were sporting our best "African" garb (yes, the Kanzu was worn). I was asked to give a speech, answered two questions by the chief financier (most annoying and most pleasurable experiences at Skills Plus), listened to many Ugandans talk, and ate very good Ugandan food.
The kind old lady who lives at the organization (85!) gave me a mat she had sewn personally by hand. People here are too kind.
In other news, while wearing the Kanzu i don't fear to move at night alone. People still stare, but it's more in awe. "Very smart" whispers and not whispers follow me as I footed around Bugembe in my Kanzu.
Additionally, I recently set minesweeper records at all levels on the new computer. My legacy at Skills Plus?
Witchdoctor session canceled. Otherwise things are moving. Don't know if I can update before leaving, but I will try. Expect an update once I safely (I hope) arrive back in the U.S.
Did you know "safari" means "journey" in Swahili? Well, my next safari begins Saturday. The days are moving...
Tuesday, August 12, 2008
Friday, August 8, 2008
Mormons in Uganda?
Yes, there are Mormons in Uganda. I learned this the first week after walking by their large and rather nice church in Jinja (It is still the only place I've seen in Uganda with a basketball court). However, other than a random run-in with a youth carry a "Book of Mormon" one almost forgot they are in Uganda. This contrast sharply with the "born agains" (evangelical Christians) who are growing rapidly and seem to be everywhere in Bugembe.
Anyways, the presence of the Church of Latter Day Saints in Uganda became much more important this week when Skills Plus learned that the Church's Humanitarian Services are contributing over 5.5 million Ushs (over $3,000 USD) to support Skills Plus' tailoring program. Shit, I'm impressed.
On the ground, power is back, but still horrible. It returned Wednesday, promptly stopped working most of Thursday, returned Friday, ran away for 5 hours, and then returned just before the end of the day. I still can't decide whether it's better to know you aren't going to have power and deal with it (July 15-August 5) or to think you're going to have power all day and only have it for 3 hours...
Also, I've learned that my host mother, Lydia, hasn't received a full paycheck since last October. She works at a local private school and apparently the directors of the school just take money from the school to suite their own purposes. Naturally funds run short and the staff get shafted. And apparently the job market in Uganda is so bad that the teachers can't just leave because there are no other jobs to find. Lydia also described how she had applied for a job in Kampala a few years ago, made it through 3 rounds of interviews and was told she had the job - as long as she was willing to "act like a Ugandan" (Lydia's words, not mine) and give the interviewer 2.7 million Ushs. She didn't have the money and the man decided to rip up here employment letter - no job. This is absurd. How are people here not angrier?
More News?
So, my flash drive (jumpdrive? What is the proper name of this thing?) picked up several Ugandan viruses. They have been taken care of (I hope) but the culprit is still at large and maurading.
Also, my boss sent me a pineapple gift through facebook. Ah technology.
I started War and Peace yesterday. 73 pages in. 1300 to go.
More Witchcraft stories:
-I heard one about Kenyan Ghost women who like to trick and seduce Ugandan Males.
-Another one was about a cursed pineapple that talked and caused sickness when people looked at it.
-In both stories, the storyteller assured me, "I was a witness".
-This statement reminded me of LBJ, "We are all witnesses".
On Sunday, I made a visit to the palace of the Chappazinga (Busoga King). Kind of deserted and eerie. I ducked under a gate and roamed about the place. Pretty sweet but it looked more like ruins than a palace under construction (I think building has been delayed several years, maybe decades?)
Also, the other day a man asked me if I had a girlfriend (unusual question, usually only old women ask this) and then told me that when I return to Uganda I need to receive a village welcome. He then proceeded to describe how in a village welcome they would take all the virgins from the village and offer the visitor his choice from the lot. I'm still unsure whether this was a historical description or an offer for the future...
Finally, I was complimented on my shoes today. Told they make the dust look like polish. Then the woman told me to shave.
Pool Update:
Wednesday was 3W, 1L. Thursday was 1 L. Friday? We'll see in a few minutes...
Schedule of Events:
Saturday is rafting on the Nile (Bilharzia anyone?). Monday is my farewell dinner at Skills Plus (Kanzu!). Tuesday, a learning session with a witch doctor (how does everyone here believe this?). Thursday, a farewell dinner with all the host parents and FSD interns (repeat of the Masala fries!). And Saturday is the beginning of my fun fun journey back to the U.S. (55 hours!)
Sula Bulungi!
Anyways, the presence of the Church of Latter Day Saints in Uganda became much more important this week when Skills Plus learned that the Church's Humanitarian Services are contributing over 5.5 million Ushs (over $3,000 USD) to support Skills Plus' tailoring program. Shit, I'm impressed.
On the ground, power is back, but still horrible. It returned Wednesday, promptly stopped working most of Thursday, returned Friday, ran away for 5 hours, and then returned just before the end of the day. I still can't decide whether it's better to know you aren't going to have power and deal with it (July 15-August 5) or to think you're going to have power all day and only have it for 3 hours...
Also, I've learned that my host mother, Lydia, hasn't received a full paycheck since last October. She works at a local private school and apparently the directors of the school just take money from the school to suite their own purposes. Naturally funds run short and the staff get shafted. And apparently the job market in Uganda is so bad that the teachers can't just leave because there are no other jobs to find. Lydia also described how she had applied for a job in Kampala a few years ago, made it through 3 rounds of interviews and was told she had the job - as long as she was willing to "act like a Ugandan" (Lydia's words, not mine) and give the interviewer 2.7 million Ushs. She didn't have the money and the man decided to rip up here employment letter - no job. This is absurd. How are people here not angrier?
More News?
So, my flash drive (jumpdrive? What is the proper name of this thing?) picked up several Ugandan viruses. They have been taken care of (I hope) but the culprit is still at large and maurading.
Also, my boss sent me a pineapple gift through facebook. Ah technology.
I started War and Peace yesterday. 73 pages in. 1300 to go.
More Witchcraft stories:
-I heard one about Kenyan Ghost women who like to trick and seduce Ugandan Males.
-Another one was about a cursed pineapple that talked and caused sickness when people looked at it.
-In both stories, the storyteller assured me, "I was a witness".
-This statement reminded me of LBJ, "We are all witnesses".
On Sunday, I made a visit to the palace of the Chappazinga (Busoga King). Kind of deserted and eerie. I ducked under a gate and roamed about the place. Pretty sweet but it looked more like ruins than a palace under construction (I think building has been delayed several years, maybe decades?)
Also, the other day a man asked me if I had a girlfriend (unusual question, usually only old women ask this) and then told me that when I return to Uganda I need to receive a village welcome. He then proceeded to describe how in a village welcome they would take all the virgins from the village and offer the visitor his choice from the lot. I'm still unsure whether this was a historical description or an offer for the future...
Finally, I was complimented on my shoes today. Told they make the dust look like polish. Then the woman told me to shave.
Pool Update:
Wednesday was 3W, 1L. Thursday was 1 L. Friday? We'll see in a few minutes...
Schedule of Events:
Saturday is rafting on the Nile (Bilharzia anyone?). Monday is my farewell dinner at Skills Plus (Kanzu!). Tuesday, a learning session with a witch doctor (how does everyone here believe this?). Thursday, a farewell dinner with all the host parents and FSD interns (repeat of the Masala fries!). And Saturday is the beginning of my fun fun journey back to the U.S. (55 hours!)
Sula Bulungi!
Monday, August 4, 2008
Jesus Whispers
The title of this post was supposed to be, "Kampala, Kampala, Kampala" (A testament to the many taxi drivers yelling at me during my first 7 weeks). However, circumstances change and I am forced to adapt.
It started when I wore a Kanzu maybe 3 weeks ago. Apparently while wearing this (without the necessary coat) I look like what Ugandans think of when they think of Jesus. Then later I showed pictures of me in a Kanzu to my host family and they confirmed these suspicions.
A few weeks passed, there were no further comments and I felt like the 'fad' had passed. However, last Friday I was walking by a nearby school and passed 5 kids on the road. Rather than chanting Mzungu as I pass (which would be normal) I instead hear rapid whispers about a "Jesus" looking figure passing them. Trying not to smirk I continued walking.
Now while it was pretty funny in the moment, in retrospect I have mixed feelings. The fact that many Ugandans' conception of the son of God as a White American (with a beard) of British and German heritage is slightly bothersome.
So anyways, Kampala. I stayed in a tent at a nice little place titled the "Red Chili Hideaway". It had some sweet pictures of some 20 types of chili peppers, but no salsa. A pity.
The gates for the Wyclef Jean concert opened at 6:00 and we went in around 7:30. Before entering, we (I was with 4 other FSD interns) explored some of Kampala (boda boda rides in Kampala are a mixture of terrifying nightmares and joyful bliss) and found a surprisingly wealthy complex near the concert, called Lugogo Square. It would fit right into any major U.S. city, whether it be in Ohio or California. Nice restaurants, a real supermarket (the only one I've seen in Uganda), and a neat little coffee shop. I even saw some Mercedes-Benz and BMWs in the parking lot. I guess there ARE some pretty wealthy Ugandans.
The cell phone company "Zain" sponsored the concert and thus, from 7:30 until 11 we had the joy of watching one long Zain commercial, with short music interludes. During these breaks, music was played from speakers or local music artists yelled about things. In the meantime we got to watch Zain and Celtel (the phone company Zain just bought) commercials, hear their spokesmen (and women) speak, and watch satellite videos of Zain events in 14 African countries. Did I mention I got a "free" Zain T-shirt!
Anyways, the first artist listed (DJ Benny D) started at 11. He wasn't bad but he was too obsessed with fire (he kept using a lighter and some kind of aerosol can to spay flames...I felt like I was 14 again). Wyclef began around 12:30 AM. He was good though he definitely ran around way too much without a shirt and with his pants falling down. Things ended about 2 AM, making for a pretty good concert.
I also had the lovely experience of having my butt touched (discretely of course) the entire night by hopeful pickpockets searching for a wallet. One little man was bold enough (i think he thought I was distracted?) to try to reach into one of my front pockets. I quickly told him no no no this wasn't going to happen (he was perhaps 12 inches shorter than me so it wasn't too difficult. He left quickly). I also got to see 4-5 fights (between Ugandans) almost break out. Apparently it wasn't only Mzungus targeted and Ugandans don't like it when people try to steal from them...
Saturday we met up for lunch with Jenna and Robby (ND person i just met...We invade this country). Indian food was good, but Taj in SB is better.
Overall, I really enjoyed my visit and am glad I went. But I'm also very glad I don't live there. It's no Columbus. Kampala is overcrowded, dirty, hectic, and the inequality is breathtaking. Lugogo Square (as nice as many places in the U.S.) is only a few km from some of the worst slums. Hard to see. Would be hard to live there.
Pictures! but download time is very very slow. Here is Jon in a full Kanzu (non Jesus):
Here is Jesus? Thoughts?
Peace.
It started when I wore a Kanzu maybe 3 weeks ago. Apparently while wearing this (without the necessary coat) I look like what Ugandans think of when they think of Jesus. Then later I showed pictures of me in a Kanzu to my host family and they confirmed these suspicions.
A few weeks passed, there were no further comments and I felt like the 'fad' had passed. However, last Friday I was walking by a nearby school and passed 5 kids on the road. Rather than chanting Mzungu as I pass (which would be normal) I instead hear rapid whispers about a "Jesus" looking figure passing them. Trying not to smirk I continued walking.
Now while it was pretty funny in the moment, in retrospect I have mixed feelings. The fact that many Ugandans' conception of the son of God as a White American (with a beard) of British and German heritage is slightly bothersome.
So anyways, Kampala. I stayed in a tent at a nice little place titled the "Red Chili Hideaway". It had some sweet pictures of some 20 types of chili peppers, but no salsa. A pity.
The gates for the Wyclef Jean concert opened at 6:00 and we went in around 7:30. Before entering, we (I was with 4 other FSD interns) explored some of Kampala (boda boda rides in Kampala are a mixture of terrifying nightmares and joyful bliss) and found a surprisingly wealthy complex near the concert, called Lugogo Square. It would fit right into any major U.S. city, whether it be in Ohio or California. Nice restaurants, a real supermarket (the only one I've seen in Uganda), and a neat little coffee shop. I even saw some Mercedes-Benz and BMWs in the parking lot. I guess there ARE some pretty wealthy Ugandans.
The cell phone company "Zain" sponsored the concert and thus, from 7:30 until 11 we had the joy of watching one long Zain commercial, with short music interludes. During these breaks, music was played from speakers or local music artists yelled about things. In the meantime we got to watch Zain and Celtel (the phone company Zain just bought) commercials, hear their spokesmen (and women) speak, and watch satellite videos of Zain events in 14 African countries. Did I mention I got a "free" Zain T-shirt!
Anyways, the first artist listed (DJ Benny D) started at 11. He wasn't bad but he was too obsessed with fire (he kept using a lighter and some kind of aerosol can to spay flames...I felt like I was 14 again). Wyclef began around 12:30 AM. He was good though he definitely ran around way too much without a shirt and with his pants falling down. Things ended about 2 AM, making for a pretty good concert.
I also had the lovely experience of having my butt touched (discretely of course) the entire night by hopeful pickpockets searching for a wallet. One little man was bold enough (i think he thought I was distracted?) to try to reach into one of my front pockets. I quickly told him no no no this wasn't going to happen (he was perhaps 12 inches shorter than me so it wasn't too difficult. He left quickly). I also got to see 4-5 fights (between Ugandans) almost break out. Apparently it wasn't only Mzungus targeted and Ugandans don't like it when people try to steal from them...
Saturday we met up for lunch with Jenna and Robby (ND person i just met...We invade this country). Indian food was good, but Taj in SB is better.
Overall, I really enjoyed my visit and am glad I went. But I'm also very glad I don't live there. It's no Columbus. Kampala is overcrowded, dirty, hectic, and the inequality is breathtaking. Lugogo Square (as nice as many places in the U.S.) is only a few km from some of the worst slums. Hard to see. Would be hard to live there.
Pictures! but download time is very very slow. Here is Jon in a full Kanzu (non Jesus):
Here is Jesus? Thoughts?
Peace.
Thursday, July 31, 2008
"Viagara Kills People"
The things I learn in Uganda...
Apparently, this actually does happen especially when one of three (maybe more) things occur. A, you overdose by taking 4-5 pills when (I believe) 1 usually suffices. B, you don't need it but you take it anyways (usually in large quantities). Or C, you get viagara from the shady cousin of your best friend's brother and it happens to be laced with unsavory (and sometimes toxic) chemicals. Basically, viagara can be a life or death decision here in Uganda.
Other news, don't be gay in Uganda (or Africa in general) because you just might get killed. The whole country treats the issue with such irrationality that they make Pat Robertson seem like Gary Kasparov (Dad? Does this analogy work?).
In case you didn't pick up on it, the other day I had a very long conversation (fascinating at times and deeply frightening at others) about domestic violence (the scary quote on yesterday's blog) , sex, homosexuality, demons/possession, and gender roles in society (both in the U.S. and Uganda). It was about 3 hours long and would have been even longer but lunch came and silenced us.
Anyways, some more Ugandan English. (Breakfast) Rolls are called "scones" here. I'm still trying to find scones to see what they are called. Also to "beep" someone is to call their cell phone but hang up before they answer. Nearly everyone here has a pay-as-you-go phone and so when a person is short on airtime but needs to talk to someone they will "beep" them, hoping that they will call them back. The reason for this is that incoming calls are often inexpensive or free.
More Random Notes: There is a growing list of misperceptions about the U.S. and myself that I have combated during my stay in Uganda. These include questions and statements like:
"Have you ever seen matches before?"
"Have you ever walked this much?" (asked after we had been walking for 15 minutes. They didn't believe me when I said one time I'd walked 20 miles in one day )
"Have you seen an ax before?" (They didn't believe me when I responded that I knew how to use one.)
"You know about the Green Men, right?"
"You know that AIDs was originally a U.S. military biological weapons project intended to suppress people of other countries, right?"
"People in the U.S. prefer [to have sex with] dogs, right?"
"If the U.S. stopped importing or producing crude oil, the government has enough crude oil reserves to last the country 10 years." (The real answer I believe is less that a month. I haven't had the chance to check online, but I would bet my life it's not a year, much less 10. The man still refuses to believe me)
Sorry. Most of these questions are amusing but not bothersome. I know people in the U.S. (myself included) have warped visions of life in Africa, so it is only natural that it works the other way. The only time I get bothered is when university educated people misconstrue things (aka Green Men/ U.S. military and AIDs) and refuse to believe anything I say in response.
Finally, I'm going to Kampala tomorrow to visit the city (my first time!) and to go to the Wyclef Jean concert (in Uganda? Craziness). Also, the following weekend (August 9th) is rafting on the Nile! Then, the 16th I get to visit the southern hemisphere for the first time and begin my 55 hour journey back to beautiful Columbus, Ohio.
It all goes quickly. Or as they say here in Uganda, "the days are running".
Apparently, this actually does happen especially when one of three (maybe more) things occur. A, you overdose by taking 4-5 pills when (I believe) 1 usually suffices. B, you don't need it but you take it anyways (usually in large quantities). Or C, you get viagara from the shady cousin of your best friend's brother and it happens to be laced with unsavory (and sometimes toxic) chemicals. Basically, viagara can be a life or death decision here in Uganda.
Other news, don't be gay in Uganda (or Africa in general) because you just might get killed. The whole country treats the issue with such irrationality that they make Pat Robertson seem like Gary Kasparov (Dad? Does this analogy work?).
In case you didn't pick up on it, the other day I had a very long conversation (fascinating at times and deeply frightening at others) about domestic violence (the scary quote on yesterday's blog) , sex, homosexuality, demons/possession, and gender roles in society (both in the U.S. and Uganda). It was about 3 hours long and would have been even longer but lunch came and silenced us.
Anyways, some more Ugandan English. (Breakfast) Rolls are called "scones" here. I'm still trying to find scones to see what they are called. Also to "beep" someone is to call their cell phone but hang up before they answer. Nearly everyone here has a pay-as-you-go phone and so when a person is short on airtime but needs to talk to someone they will "beep" them, hoping that they will call them back. The reason for this is that incoming calls are often inexpensive or free.
More Random Notes: There is a growing list of misperceptions about the U.S. and myself that I have combated during my stay in Uganda. These include questions and statements like:
"Have you ever seen matches before?"
"Have you ever walked this much?" (asked after we had been walking for 15 minutes. They didn't believe me when I said one time I'd walked 20 miles in one day )
"Have you seen an ax before?" (They didn't believe me when I responded that I knew how to use one.)
"You know about the Green Men, right?"
"You know that AIDs was originally a U.S. military biological weapons project intended to suppress people of other countries, right?"
"People in the U.S. prefer [to have sex with] dogs, right?"
"If the U.S. stopped importing or producing crude oil, the government has enough crude oil reserves to last the country 10 years." (The real answer I believe is less that a month. I haven't had the chance to check online, but I would bet my life it's not a year, much less 10. The man still refuses to believe me)
Sorry. Most of these questions are amusing but not bothersome. I know people in the U.S. (myself included) have warped visions of life in Africa, so it is only natural that it works the other way. The only time I get bothered is when university educated people misconstrue things (aka Green Men/ U.S. military and AIDs) and refuse to believe anything I say in response.
Finally, I'm going to Kampala tomorrow to visit the city (my first time!) and to go to the Wyclef Jean concert (in Uganda? Craziness). Also, the following weekend (August 9th) is rafting on the Nile! Then, the 16th I get to visit the southern hemisphere for the first time and begin my 55 hour journey back to beautiful Columbus, Ohio.
It all goes quickly. Or as they say here in Uganda, "the days are running".
Wednesday, July 30, 2008
31 Cent Beer?
So this past week I heard all about the Agricultural Show taking place in Jinja and on Saturday I got to see it for myself. The verdict? It's pretty much like a county fair, though not as much popcorn. There was cotton candy, creepy old men, a large (and scary looking) swing ride, loud music, and cheap beer. 500 Ush Beer is hard to beat (500 Ush = about 31 cents). There was also some Guinness (WTF?), so I felt compelled to try. Poor choice. Apparently Guinness in Uganda is a bit different from that in the U.S.
Another highlight of the show was that while waiting to hear the Ugandan musician "Chameleon", I got to see a Ugandan of Indian descent (my term) do a Michael Jackson imitation on stage. Apparently this is common in Uganda? And the guy doing the dancing is supposedly really well known? This country never ceases to amaze me.
Pool Update: Things have improved. I corrected my mini slump (4 days, 4 losses) and won 3, lost 2 on Friday. Then on Monday I won 2 and lost 1. Lately, I've been pretty busy and haven't been able to go everyday. A shame really.
Other things I've learned/observed:
Getting on the wrong bus just means that you get an hour and half tour of a random, remote village before returning to town (all for only 800 Ush!)
It is normal for Ugandans to have 2-3 (sometimes 5!) minute conversations at a distance of 40-60 feet. Somehow they can all hear and understand each other. Its common for staff of Skills Plus to hold conversations with people walking along the road while practically inside our building. Maybe its the language? Somehow, i don't think this would work as well with English...
Also, Ugandan Gender Relations have a very long way to go. Someone (a male Ugandan) tried to describe to me how in the villages, "sometimes the woman wanted to be beaten".
And people here can be very superstitious. A man told me today all about the reality of demons and possession.
Success! I helped Caesar get an email address. Will facebook be next?
My organization is having a farewell dinner for me. Yesterday, we went to reserve the hen we are going to slaughter for the occasion. Joyful.
Finally, when trying to find a boda boda late at night, just look for the bike with the smallest driver.
Peace.
Another highlight of the show was that while waiting to hear the Ugandan musician "Chameleon", I got to see a Ugandan of Indian descent (my term) do a Michael Jackson imitation on stage. Apparently this is common in Uganda? And the guy doing the dancing is supposedly really well known? This country never ceases to amaze me.
Pool Update: Things have improved. I corrected my mini slump (4 days, 4 losses) and won 3, lost 2 on Friday. Then on Monday I won 2 and lost 1. Lately, I've been pretty busy and haven't been able to go everyday. A shame really.
Other things I've learned/observed:
Getting on the wrong bus just means that you get an hour and half tour of a random, remote village before returning to town (all for only 800 Ush!)
It is normal for Ugandans to have 2-3 (sometimes 5!) minute conversations at a distance of 40-60 feet. Somehow they can all hear and understand each other. Its common for staff of Skills Plus to hold conversations with people walking along the road while practically inside our building. Maybe its the language? Somehow, i don't think this would work as well with English...
Also, Ugandan Gender Relations have a very long way to go. Someone (a male Ugandan) tried to describe to me how in the villages, "sometimes the woman wanted to be beaten".
And people here can be very superstitious. A man told me today all about the reality of demons and possession.
Success! I helped Caesar get an email address. Will facebook be next?
My organization is having a farewell dinner for me. Yesterday, we went to reserve the hen we are going to slaughter for the occasion. Joyful.
Finally, when trying to find a boda boda late at night, just look for the bike with the smallest driver.
Peace.
Friday, July 25, 2008
Of Questions and Quotations
I realize that I have been writing a lot this week, but bare with me. Power has been out at work for the last 11 days (since July 14) so I have lots of time for thinking and observing.
Noteworthy (in)sights of the week:
Watching one of the Ugandans I work with (the green man guy) dilligently pouring bottled water into a legit and nice wine glass, sipping it ever so slowly. Somehow this sight made me look away rather quickly, trying not to laugh.
I had some very very good fish: Talaipia. It's from both the Nile and Lake Victoria and despite the bones it is delicious. Much better than the endlessly chewy chicken, beef, or goat.
I noticed that when the moon is full I don't step in as much mud and animal feces during my foot home at night (usually i can hardly see Caesar next to me much less the road. And because cows graze along the path every day I'm sure you can guess what I step in...)
I watched my supervisor start a riot to protect the dirt road leading to Skills Plus. The events were the following:
-Hakim (my supervisor) notices a man across the road digging what appear to be large holes in the road.
-He walks over and asks the man what he is doing. He shows Hakim a letter from the Busoga Kingdom that gives him the right to construct a parking lot in the area in front of the nearby stadium . The man has decided to cut the perhaps 20 foot wide dirt road (cars do use it daily) into a 4 foot walking path with his fence.
-Hakim walks a bit away and begins calling members of the Bugembe community
-Over 30 people show up in a matter of 20 minutes. They start yelling angrily at the man and obstructing his work.
-Hakim then calls the local radio station and says there is a large group of people who are very angry, threatening a man nearby the stadium. The radio car shows up 10 minutes later.
Hakim then calls the member of parliament for the area (the energy minister of Uganda) and says that there is a large group of angry people who are threatening a man who is trying to destroy a public road.
tThe MP happens to be in Jinja (he lives in Kampala but there is an Agricultural Show this week in Jinja. I'm going on Saturday so expect notes next week) so he shows up 30 minutes later and ends the situation. He informs the man he cannot build the fence today.
-The crowd leaves, happy.
-Hakim explains to me what in the world I just watched happen. Remember, I don't speak Lusoga. So the entire time I had no idea what was happening except it was highly amusing.
More random facts:
Jonathan in Lusoga is Yona San. "Bitter" in Ugandan English means "spicy". Thursday I had some of the best "bitter" food I have had since London: Masala Fries, Indian style. Utterly Amazing. Also, I was mistaken for being 28 years old. I saw my first Nigerian horror film (it was awful. So bad it almost wasn't funny. At least bollywood films are amusing...).
Finally, someone tried a new style of awkward questioning: asking if I could set them up to marry my brother. It started with a vague question: could I set them up to marry an American from my home state? When this got nowhere (I tried to explain that I can't make someone love someone else) she began asking about my family, learned I had a brother, and then asked if he was single. Then the question. So Matt, any advice? Suggestions? Feedback?
I think I will go try to catch some pool. This week has been very bad (4 losses and no wins). It's time to stop joking around-less I start losing the little respect I earned.
Peace.
Noteworthy (in)sights of the week:
Watching one of the Ugandans I work with (the green man guy) dilligently pouring bottled water into a legit and nice wine glass, sipping it ever so slowly. Somehow this sight made me look away rather quickly, trying not to laugh.
I had some very very good fish: Talaipia. It's from both the Nile and Lake Victoria and despite the bones it is delicious. Much better than the endlessly chewy chicken, beef, or goat.
I noticed that when the moon is full I don't step in as much mud and animal feces during my foot home at night (usually i can hardly see Caesar next to me much less the road. And because cows graze along the path every day I'm sure you can guess what I step in...)
I watched my supervisor start a riot to protect the dirt road leading to Skills Plus. The events were the following:
-Hakim (my supervisor) notices a man across the road digging what appear to be large holes in the road.
-He walks over and asks the man what he is doing. He shows Hakim a letter from the Busoga Kingdom that gives him the right to construct a parking lot in the area in front of the nearby stadium . The man has decided to cut the perhaps 20 foot wide dirt road (cars do use it daily) into a 4 foot walking path with his fence.
-Hakim walks a bit away and begins calling members of the Bugembe community
-Over 30 people show up in a matter of 20 minutes. They start yelling angrily at the man and obstructing his work.
-Hakim then calls the local radio station and says there is a large group of people who are very angry, threatening a man nearby the stadium. The radio car shows up 10 minutes later.
Hakim then calls the member of parliament for the area (the energy minister of Uganda) and says that there is a large group of angry people who are threatening a man who is trying to destroy a public road.
tThe MP happens to be in Jinja (he lives in Kampala but there is an Agricultural Show this week in Jinja. I'm going on Saturday so expect notes next week) so he shows up 30 minutes later and ends the situation. He informs the man he cannot build the fence today.
-The crowd leaves, happy.
-Hakim explains to me what in the world I just watched happen. Remember, I don't speak Lusoga. So the entire time I had no idea what was happening except it was highly amusing.
More random facts:
Jonathan in Lusoga is Yona San. "Bitter" in Ugandan English means "spicy". Thursday I had some of the best "bitter" food I have had since London: Masala Fries, Indian style. Utterly Amazing. Also, I was mistaken for being 28 years old. I saw my first Nigerian horror film (it was awful. So bad it almost wasn't funny. At least bollywood films are amusing...).
Finally, someone tried a new style of awkward questioning: asking if I could set them up to marry my brother. It started with a vague question: could I set them up to marry an American from my home state? When this got nowhere (I tried to explain that I can't make someone love someone else) she began asking about my family, learned I had a brother, and then asked if he was single. Then the question. So Matt, any advice? Suggestions? Feedback?
I think I will go try to catch some pool. This week has been very bad (4 losses and no wins). It's time to stop joking around-less I start losing the little respect I earned.
Peace.
Wednesday, July 23, 2008
Source of the Nile?
Apparently there is some disagreement about the location of the "true" source of the Nile River. Uganda claims the source to be in Uganda (naturally), near the town of Jinja. However, Rwanda argues that because the source of Lake Victoria flows from several mountain rivers within Rwanda, that is where the "real" source lies. While this might seem like a silly squabble, it has real monetary implications. It is not only a matter of national pride but tourists pay big bucks to visit such sites. I think most (all) people I've talked with agree that Uganda is the "true source", but then again perhaps my sample is a bit biased...
In other news: The U.S. based organization (Foundation for Sustainable Development) through which my internship functions offers interns (me) the option to apply for a grant to help their host organization. I worked on my proposal the past few weeks and yesterday I learned that my grant was approved and FSD is going to fully fund my proposal. I'd never written a grant before so I was pretty pleased.
We're (Skills Plus and I) going to purchase a new (relatively) computer for their computer training program along with a UPS voltage protection device (electric current is sometimes crazy here and can fry computers). The computer will replace the one Skills Plus is currently renting (a not very good computer at 50,000 USHs per month. Not a lot in U.S. dollars, $31.25, but here it is significant). The rent money will then be allocated to helping support Skills Plus' tailoring program. FSD stresses sustainable development and I think my grant (there were other parts to my plan but its like 9 pages so...) accomplishes this.
More News: I learned the Busoga King (the Chappazinga) is building a palace nearby Caesar's house. Real Ugandan royalty! I've seen it from the dirty passenger window of a car, but I hope to do a walking tour before I leave. Oh right, in case you are not familiar with Uganda the Busoga are one of the many tribes here (Buganda, Busoga, Acholi, etc..)
I learned how to make chapati yesterday. It's really pretty easy. I wonder how it would taste with spicy hummus? Probably delicious.
More Ugandan English. To walk downhill is to "slope". Uphill is to "climb". To run along the side of the road is "road work". Food with any of the tea breaks is called "escort". Margarine is called "blue band" (the only brand in Uganda...Makes me think of Kleenex).
Yesterday I had a very long and interesting conversation (no power again) with one of the volunteers who was a former pilot and aeronautic engineer. We talked about "democracy" in Uganda, why Ugandans of Indian descent are not called Ugandans, why power is terrible here (he wants Uganda to build nuclear power plants), the effects of global warming and industrialization (his words...In my opinion Uganda is hardly industrialized) on Lake Victoria, and the absurd population growth in Uganda (half the country is younger than 15... the newspaper here said if the current growth rate continues the population is projected to be nearly 100 million by 2050).
My family was asking me about western music so I decided to let them listen to my Ipod shuffle. They loved the little device, especially my host brother, Steven. While I think he legitimately likes my music (he really liked the few Metallica songs I have), Caesar seems to enjoy more the act of using the Ipod rather than actually listening to the music. He had the headphones in for perhaps 15 minutes before I realized I hadn't shown him how to turn it on. I don't think he likes my music very much because he hasn't asked to listen since....
In other news: The U.S. based organization (Foundation for Sustainable Development) through which my internship functions offers interns (me) the option to apply for a grant to help their host organization. I worked on my proposal the past few weeks and yesterday I learned that my grant was approved and FSD is going to fully fund my proposal. I'd never written a grant before so I was pretty pleased.
We're (Skills Plus and I) going to purchase a new (relatively) computer for their computer training program along with a UPS voltage protection device (electric current is sometimes crazy here and can fry computers). The computer will replace the one Skills Plus is currently renting (a not very good computer at 50,000 USHs per month. Not a lot in U.S. dollars, $31.25, but here it is significant). The rent money will then be allocated to helping support Skills Plus' tailoring program. FSD stresses sustainable development and I think my grant (there were other parts to my plan but its like 9 pages so...) accomplishes this.
More News: I learned the Busoga King (the Chappazinga) is building a palace nearby Caesar's house. Real Ugandan royalty! I've seen it from the dirty passenger window of a car, but I hope to do a walking tour before I leave. Oh right, in case you are not familiar with Uganda the Busoga are one of the many tribes here (Buganda, Busoga, Acholi, etc..)
I learned how to make chapati yesterday. It's really pretty easy. I wonder how it would taste with spicy hummus? Probably delicious.
More Ugandan English. To walk downhill is to "slope". Uphill is to "climb". To run along the side of the road is "road work". Food with any of the tea breaks is called "escort". Margarine is called "blue band" (the only brand in Uganda...Makes me think of Kleenex).
Yesterday I had a very long and interesting conversation (no power again) with one of the volunteers who was a former pilot and aeronautic engineer. We talked about "democracy" in Uganda, why Ugandans of Indian descent are not called Ugandans, why power is terrible here (he wants Uganda to build nuclear power plants), the effects of global warming and industrialization (his words...In my opinion Uganda is hardly industrialized) on Lake Victoria, and the absurd population growth in Uganda (half the country is younger than 15... the newspaper here said if the current growth rate continues the population is projected to be nearly 100 million by 2050).
My family was asking me about western music so I decided to let them listen to my Ipod shuffle. They loved the little device, especially my host brother, Steven. While I think he legitimately likes my music (he really liked the few Metallica songs I have), Caesar seems to enjoy more the act of using the Ipod rather than actually listening to the music. He had the headphones in for perhaps 15 minutes before I realized I hadn't shown him how to turn it on. I don't think he likes my music very much because he hasn't asked to listen since....
Monday, July 21, 2008
Ugandan Environmentalism?
In Bugembe, roaming animals are a part of life and something you see every day. Herds of cattle, flocks(?) of chickens, and goats tethered to the roadside fill the landscape. People will often let their cows and chickens roam the neighborhood during the day, trusting them to return to their rightful home by nightfall. The first week I didn't quite understand this (silly Mzungu I am) and thought that Caesar owned chickens because there were several families of chickens meandering through our yards and trying (unsuccessfully) to enter the house. I eventually realized that their home was just down the road and they were only searching for a tasty snack. It really gives a new meaning to the term "free range".
Skills Plus also enjoys the company of numerous chickens that seem to enjoy the delicacies of its compound. The chickens are there practically each day but it is a special day when some of the local cattle pay a visit. They not only add to the scenery but they usually mow the lawn pretty effectively.
These seem pretty "environment friendly" but overall I don't think environmentalism has hit Uganda (does this really surprise anyone?). I think it's hard for people to be overly concerned about damaging the environment (it's difficult to see short term effects) when people are overwhelmed by the poverty and disease before your very eyes. Ugandans seem very comfortable with dumping trash anywhere (no hesitation tossing bottles outside of a taxi window or dumping trash at very beautiful waterfalls) and seem happy to burn the trash they do collect. I don't mind tossing banana peels or corn cobs into a field because they decompose relatively quickly. But plastic bottles? I do my best not to "integrate" too much into the local practices but sometimes things are outside my control.
This past weekend I went on a trip with the other FSD interns and staff to the east, to Sippi Falls, which is maybe 50 or 60 km from the Kenyan border. It was beautiful, relaxing, and I found my first salsa in Uganda!
The verdict? Honestly, it was good but a bit of a disappointment. Ugandans in general don't like spicy foods so it was very very mild (think ketchup). Fortunately, the guacamole was excellent (think Chipotle but better). On Saturday we decided to make "Ugandan burritos" which consisted of white rice, steamed vegetables, salsa, guacamole, and g-nut sauce all rolled into a chapati. It was pretty excellent, probably my favorite meal in Uganda.
Another fun fact about this weekend was that I had the most amazing shower. I'm serious. It probably made my top 5 list for the weekend. I know that back in the U.S. I take showers for granted, but it was my first "real" shower (there was running water, a shower head, and warm water!) since London (5 and half weeks ago). I had forgotten how glorious they are. And for a few hours at least, I was actually clean...
In other news, my work at Skills Plus is progressing but power continues to be a problem. We have been without power for a week (since last Monday, the 14th) and have had no power for 11 of the 21 days I have been at for work. It has become slightly absurd as most days (like today) the businesses across the street (perhaps 100 meters away) will have power while we still do not. The location of our building is partly to blame (it is on a different power line) but I think its clear Bugembe/Uganda needs a better electricity company. From everything I can tell, electricity used to be provided by the federal government but due to US/IMF pressures (among others) Uganda privatized the industry in the 1990s. However, they did not privatize it very well as after privatization only one large electricity company emerged with virtually no competition. They own a virtual monopoly on the Ugandan market and its services are pretty bad as a result.
It's probably a bit more complex than this simple portrait but it's all I've been able to piece together thus far.
Sorry if this post wasn't very funny. It's hard to top the green men story....
Skills Plus also enjoys the company of numerous chickens that seem to enjoy the delicacies of its compound. The chickens are there practically each day but it is a special day when some of the local cattle pay a visit. They not only add to the scenery but they usually mow the lawn pretty effectively.
These seem pretty "environment friendly" but overall I don't think environmentalism has hit Uganda (does this really surprise anyone?). I think it's hard for people to be overly concerned about damaging the environment (it's difficult to see short term effects) when people are overwhelmed by the poverty and disease before your very eyes. Ugandans seem very comfortable with dumping trash anywhere (no hesitation tossing bottles outside of a taxi window or dumping trash at very beautiful waterfalls) and seem happy to burn the trash they do collect. I don't mind tossing banana peels or corn cobs into a field because they decompose relatively quickly. But plastic bottles? I do my best not to "integrate" too much into the local practices but sometimes things are outside my control.
This past weekend I went on a trip with the other FSD interns and staff to the east, to Sippi Falls, which is maybe 50 or 60 km from the Kenyan border. It was beautiful, relaxing, and I found my first salsa in Uganda!
The verdict? Honestly, it was good but a bit of a disappointment. Ugandans in general don't like spicy foods so it was very very mild (think ketchup). Fortunately, the guacamole was excellent (think Chipotle but better). On Saturday we decided to make "Ugandan burritos" which consisted of white rice, steamed vegetables, salsa, guacamole, and g-nut sauce all rolled into a chapati. It was pretty excellent, probably my favorite meal in Uganda.
Another fun fact about this weekend was that I had the most amazing shower. I'm serious. It probably made my top 5 list for the weekend. I know that back in the U.S. I take showers for granted, but it was my first "real" shower (there was running water, a shower head, and warm water!) since London (5 and half weeks ago). I had forgotten how glorious they are. And for a few hours at least, I was actually clean...
In other news, my work at Skills Plus is progressing but power continues to be a problem. We have been without power for a week (since last Monday, the 14th) and have had no power for 11 of the 21 days I have been at for work. It has become slightly absurd as most days (like today) the businesses across the street (perhaps 100 meters away) will have power while we still do not. The location of our building is partly to blame (it is on a different power line) but I think its clear Bugembe/Uganda needs a better electricity company. From everything I can tell, electricity used to be provided by the federal government but due to US/IMF pressures (among others) Uganda privatized the industry in the 1990s. However, they did not privatize it very well as after privatization only one large electricity company emerged with virtually no competition. They own a virtual monopoly on the Ugandan market and its services are pretty bad as a result.
It's probably a bit more complex than this simple portrait but it's all I've been able to piece together thus far.
Sorry if this post wasn't very funny. It's hard to top the green men story....
Wednesday, July 16, 2008
Green Men?
I learned something very interesting today. Apparently, there are green men living in the United States that originally came from Mars and are behind the advanced technology of our country. They are difficult to see but they work diligently underground with U.S. and Israeli officials to develop these technologies.
Did something happen in the last five weeks that I should know about?
Anyways, the person telling me this "truth" was not some random stranger but the leading financier of my organization, a local politician, and the deputy headmaster (deputy principal) of a local secondary school. He was also the man who invited me to the Introduction Ceremony last weekend. He cited reading several article from a reliable magazine (the name slipped his mind) and he confidently assured me that one of his friends had checked the internet and confirmed that the story was true. The people sitting around the lunch table also seemed familiar with this fact.
He gave me the strangest of looks when I told him I'd never heard of the story. I think he now believes that I'm not very knowledgeable about my own country. Imagine! There are green people living in your country and you don't know! Poor soul, that Mzungu...
When I tried to gently convince him that not everything on the internet is true (check the source) and that there are no green men (i think) in the U.S. , he waved away my answers convinced of the truth within his mind. It was one of those situations where in the moment I ask myself,"is this really happening?"
I have a favor to ask. If anyone can find an article or website online that supports this claim could you please pass it along? I would appreciate it much.
Pool update: I won 4 games yesterday and lost 2. Caesar and I will trade off when we are winning. For example, yesterday he won 1, then I won 3, then he won 2, then I dropped the ball and lost. I really like the pool hall.
Did something happen in the last five weeks that I should know about?
Anyways, the person telling me this "truth" was not some random stranger but the leading financier of my organization, a local politician, and the deputy headmaster (deputy principal) of a local secondary school. He was also the man who invited me to the Introduction Ceremony last weekend. He cited reading several article from a reliable magazine (the name slipped his mind) and he confidently assured me that one of his friends had checked the internet and confirmed that the story was true. The people sitting around the lunch table also seemed familiar with this fact.
He gave me the strangest of looks when I told him I'd never heard of the story. I think he now believes that I'm not very knowledgeable about my own country. Imagine! There are green people living in your country and you don't know! Poor soul, that Mzungu...
When I tried to gently convince him that not everything on the internet is true (check the source) and that there are no green men (i think) in the U.S. , he waved away my answers convinced of the truth within his mind. It was one of those situations where in the moment I ask myself,"is this really happening?"
I have a favor to ask. If anyone can find an article or website online that supports this claim could you please pass it along? I would appreciate it much.
Pool update: I won 4 games yesterday and lost 2. Caesar and I will trade off when we are winning. For example, yesterday he won 1, then I won 3, then he won 2, then I dropped the ball and lost. I really like the pool hall.
Monday, July 14, 2008
A day in Uganda
I just realized people might not know what I exactly "do" every day. Well here is a "typical" day in Uganda for Jon....
6:30-7:30 AM- Wake up under my very nice mosquito net with larger than mosquito size holes. Go Iron clothes for the day with a coal burning Iron. Take bucket shower in dark room with the only light coming from holes in the wall between the shower room and where I sleep.
7:40 AM take breakfast with Caesar. This usually G-nuts, bread, or if I'm lucky Chapati. These go with the tea (Dry or African. Dry is without milk, African is obviously with milk).
7:55 leave for work
8:15 Arrive at Skills Plus after the pleasant 20 minute walk. Admire Lake Victoria from Caesar's porch.
8:30-10:00 If power is on at work, then I work on the computer. If power is off I honestly can't do much. I try to talk to Ugandans.
10:00 Take Morning Tea (usually similar foods and tea to breakfast)
10:45-2(sometimes 3) Do random work. Sometimes talk with people. Other times go with Hakim (my supervisor) on visits to the field. I've been working on a grant proposal for a while so that has been keeping me busy. And the power has been working better of late (I think it has been out only 6 of my 16 days here, but 5 of my first 10)
2:00-3:00 Take Lunch (sometimes good:Posho with beans. Other times bad: green eggplant sauce with tiny fishes that stare at me)
3:00-5:00 usually people are visiting and I meet people from the community that Skills Plus either helps or who are financial/technical/administrative support for the organization. People love meeting and talking with Mzungu's (particularly one whose major is Political Science). Everyone seems to have an opinion on politics here.
5:00-7:00 I usually either go to town (Jinja) to meet some of the other western interns, check internet, continue talking with people, take evening tea (like breakfast and morning tea), or just read.
7:15 meet Caesar to play pool at the local pub called Silver Sands. If we play well we will leave at 9:00 or 9:30. If we play bad, we leave by 8:00-8:30.
9:30-Foot (walk) up the hill to Caesar's house.
10:00-10:30 eat supper. Matooke is a necessity. As is Envuluga sauce. And botunda. Botunda is one of their passion fruits and actually the juice is delicious. Better than any juice I've had in the U.S.
11:00-Write down random thoughts and go to bed.
I hope someone enjoyed this.
Anyways, the Introduction this past weekend was good. I was in a very rural village in the Mayuge district, right by Lake Victoria. The area we were in was surrounded on three sides by the Lake. (Peninsula, anyone?) Anyways, people there were literally shocked to see a mzungu. As in so shocked that almost no one chanted Mzungu. Instead they just would stop what they were doing and stare. I sat in a chair to talk with one of the Ugandans I knew and a literal circle of little kids surrounded us until some adult shooed them away. Also when I walked down to the lake, literally 15 kids tried to mob me.
Overall, the ceremony was interesting. I bought a traditional Ugandan ceremony garment called a Kanzu. It it a long white robe looking thing and I wore a suit coat to go with it. People thought it was hilarious and commented that "Mzungu is very smart" (well dressed) and that I "looked like Jesus".
After the ceremony we had the classy beverages of Coke, Sprite, and Fanta to celebrate (I will never understand how these are "classy" drinks here. People usually only drink them at graduations, introductions, or other celebrations)
Also, today a man wanted to name the secondary school he was building after me. I tried to convince him otherwise but he seemed pretty sincere. I don't know if he thought this would irrevocably tie me to the school and force me to support it or if he just really liked me...
6:30-7:30 AM- Wake up under my very nice mosquito net with larger than mosquito size holes. Go Iron clothes for the day with a coal burning Iron. Take bucket shower in dark room with the only light coming from holes in the wall between the shower room and where I sleep.
7:40 AM take breakfast with Caesar. This usually G-nuts, bread, or if I'm lucky Chapati. These go with the tea (Dry or African. Dry is without milk, African is obviously with milk).
7:55 leave for work
8:15 Arrive at Skills Plus after the pleasant 20 minute walk. Admire Lake Victoria from Caesar's porch.
8:30-10:00 If power is on at work, then I work on the computer. If power is off I honestly can't do much. I try to talk to Ugandans.
10:00 Take Morning Tea (usually similar foods and tea to breakfast)
10:45-2(sometimes 3) Do random work. Sometimes talk with people. Other times go with Hakim (my supervisor) on visits to the field. I've been working on a grant proposal for a while so that has been keeping me busy. And the power has been working better of late (I think it has been out only 6 of my 16 days here, but 5 of my first 10)
2:00-3:00 Take Lunch (sometimes good:Posho with beans. Other times bad: green eggplant sauce with tiny fishes that stare at me)
3:00-5:00 usually people are visiting and I meet people from the community that Skills Plus either helps or who are financial/technical/administrative support for the organization. People love meeting and talking with Mzungu's (particularly one whose major is Political Science). Everyone seems to have an opinion on politics here.
5:00-7:00 I usually either go to town (Jinja) to meet some of the other western interns, check internet, continue talking with people, take evening tea (like breakfast and morning tea), or just read.
7:15 meet Caesar to play pool at the local pub called Silver Sands. If we play well we will leave at 9:00 or 9:30. If we play bad, we leave by 8:00-8:30.
9:30-Foot (walk) up the hill to Caesar's house.
10:00-10:30 eat supper. Matooke is a necessity. As is Envuluga sauce. And botunda. Botunda is one of their passion fruits and actually the juice is delicious. Better than any juice I've had in the U.S.
11:00-Write down random thoughts and go to bed.
I hope someone enjoyed this.
Anyways, the Introduction this past weekend was good. I was in a very rural village in the Mayuge district, right by Lake Victoria. The area we were in was surrounded on three sides by the Lake. (Peninsula, anyone?) Anyways, people there were literally shocked to see a mzungu. As in so shocked that almost no one chanted Mzungu. Instead they just would stop what they were doing and stare. I sat in a chair to talk with one of the Ugandans I knew and a literal circle of little kids surrounded us until some adult shooed them away. Also when I walked down to the lake, literally 15 kids tried to mob me.
Overall, the ceremony was interesting. I bought a traditional Ugandan ceremony garment called a Kanzu. It it a long white robe looking thing and I wore a suit coat to go with it. People thought it was hilarious and commented that "Mzungu is very smart" (well dressed) and that I "looked like Jesus".
After the ceremony we had the classy beverages of Coke, Sprite, and Fanta to celebrate (I will never understand how these are "classy" drinks here. People usually only drink them at graduations, introductions, or other celebrations)
Also, today a man wanted to name the secondary school he was building after me. I tried to convince him otherwise but he seemed pretty sincere. I don't know if he thought this would irrevocably tie me to the school and force me to support it or if he just really liked me...
Thursday, July 10, 2008
Kale Ssebo...
This is usually my response when I have no idea what someone is saying to me. It means: "It's ok Sir". It basically means I agree with what they are saying even though I usually have no idea.
So far I've been able to visit the homes of two of the other interns. Their families are pretty sweet, but no one else's host father plays pool every night...
Lisa's Uncle is probably the best educated Ugandan I have meet. He studied at the University of Edinburgh in the U.K. and speaks like he is lecturing a university class. I dubbed him "the professor" in my mind. Anyways we had a two hour conversation about politics and I think he was doing 90% of the talking. Apparently he liked our conversation because Lisa was telling me that he wants to buy me a radio so we can listen to political talk shows together...
Erica's house is very very nice. Electricity, indoor plumbing, running water, a big (Ugandan relative) tv, and nice couches. I went over there with some of the other interns and we watched the Bourne Identity yesterday. I almost forgot we were in Uganda until the electricity cut out towards the climax of the film. Ah, reality sometimes jumps out and bites you.
Awkward questions seem rampant and growing. Yesterday, an old lady after introducing me to her daughter asked me: "Are you married". Subtlety is not a strong suit in Uganda. Also, I've learned that the easiest joke I can tell is to say to someone that I am the youngest in my family. They seem to think this is hilarious and always laugh uncontrollably. I haven't yet gotten someone to explain why.
I'm going to buy a Kanzu today for a wedding introduction on Saturday. Should be sweet.
So far I've been able to visit the homes of two of the other interns. Their families are pretty sweet, but no one else's host father plays pool every night...
Lisa's Uncle is probably the best educated Ugandan I have meet. He studied at the University of Edinburgh in the U.K. and speaks like he is lecturing a university class. I dubbed him "the professor" in my mind. Anyways we had a two hour conversation about politics and I think he was doing 90% of the talking. Apparently he liked our conversation because Lisa was telling me that he wants to buy me a radio so we can listen to political talk shows together...
Erica's house is very very nice. Electricity, indoor plumbing, running water, a big (Ugandan relative) tv, and nice couches. I went over there with some of the other interns and we watched the Bourne Identity yesterday. I almost forgot we were in Uganda until the electricity cut out towards the climax of the film. Ah, reality sometimes jumps out and bites you.
Awkward questions seem rampant and growing. Yesterday, an old lady after introducing me to her daughter asked me: "Are you married". Subtlety is not a strong suit in Uganda. Also, I've learned that the easiest joke I can tell is to say to someone that I am the youngest in my family. They seem to think this is hilarious and always laugh uncontrollably. I haven't yet gotten someone to explain why.
I'm going to buy a Kanzu today for a wedding introduction on Saturday. Should be sweet.
Tuesday, July 8, 2008
Is Ohio really hotter than Uganda?
I'm pretty sure the answer is yes - right now at least. But no one here seems to believe me. When I try to argue they seem to just roll their eyes and ignore the poor confused Mzungu. But I swear its true. In the sun it might hit 85 here and in the shade it can't be any hotter than 75. At night I swear its in the low 60s if not high 50s. My room here is cool enough that I have not only sheets but a blanket as well.
Good news at the pool hall. After usually getting beaten badly (I think I won 4 times over the first two weeks and probably lost 9 or 10) I broke through yesterday winning 5 games until I finally lost. My best performance by far. I'm improving, which is good.
Also, have I mentioned that I have earthen floors in my home? Well, I do. And they are actually pretty sweet at times. Washing my face has never been so much fun. Why go to a sink when you can sit in your room and wash your face there. And showers? Who needs a bathroom when you can shower in any room? (I use our shower room. But I could just shower in my room if I wanted...)
A little girl on the bus the other was fascinated with my arm. At first I thought it was my white skin but her father told me she was fascinated by the hair. Apparently Ugandans (even men) don't have much if any hair on their arms. Another baby was fascinated by my beard and kept trying to hang from it.
O, I haven't shaved since June 9th. But it's ok because there isn't a mirror in my house. I usually will go 5-6 days without seeing my reflection, which is probably ok. Wanting to know what I looked like, the other day I took a picture of myself and then zoomed in on the photo to see.
I attended Caesar's sister's gradation last Saturday. It was all in Lusoga but they were blaring U.S. music before and after from two large speakers hooked up to a computer. Mixing bad boyband pop music (I swear I heard backstreet boys. not that I would recognize them...) with rap. Hearing 50 cent cursing loudly at a graduation ceremony in Ugandan was slightly hilarious. Also, I got the opportunity to address all the guests (apparently it is traditional to allow guests to speak) so I impressed them with a handful of the lusoga words I know. They enjoyed my effort but then Caesar has to shoot me down and inform me that I had mixed a Lugandan word with my Lusoga greeting. It's ok. I got him back by beating him in pool yesterday.
I'm learning to iron my clothes to prevent Mango Fly episode number 2. It's going well, I'm using a hot coal heated iron. Matooke with envuluga is getting a bit old.
Good news at the pool hall. After usually getting beaten badly (I think I won 4 times over the first two weeks and probably lost 9 or 10) I broke through yesterday winning 5 games until I finally lost. My best performance by far. I'm improving, which is good.
Also, have I mentioned that I have earthen floors in my home? Well, I do. And they are actually pretty sweet at times. Washing my face has never been so much fun. Why go to a sink when you can sit in your room and wash your face there. And showers? Who needs a bathroom when you can shower in any room? (I use our shower room. But I could just shower in my room if I wanted...)
A little girl on the bus the other was fascinated with my arm. At first I thought it was my white skin but her father told me she was fascinated by the hair. Apparently Ugandans (even men) don't have much if any hair on their arms. Another baby was fascinated by my beard and kept trying to hang from it.
O, I haven't shaved since June 9th. But it's ok because there isn't a mirror in my house. I usually will go 5-6 days without seeing my reflection, which is probably ok. Wanting to know what I looked like, the other day I took a picture of myself and then zoomed in on the photo to see.
I attended Caesar's sister's gradation last Saturday. It was all in Lusoga but they were blaring U.S. music before and after from two large speakers hooked up to a computer. Mixing bad boyband pop music (I swear I heard backstreet boys. not that I would recognize them...) with rap. Hearing 50 cent cursing loudly at a graduation ceremony in Ugandan was slightly hilarious. Also, I got the opportunity to address all the guests (apparently it is traditional to allow guests to speak) so I impressed them with a handful of the lusoga words I know. They enjoyed my effort but then Caesar has to shoot me down and inform me that I had mixed a Lugandan word with my Lusoga greeting. It's ok. I got him back by beating him in pool yesterday.
I'm learning to iron my clothes to prevent Mango Fly episode number 2. It's going well, I'm using a hot coal heated iron. Matooke with envuluga is getting a bit old.
Thursday, July 3, 2008
Viva Obama!
When I'm meeting new people (which is often) and I struggle at thinking of topics to talk about, I have discovered an easy way to talk forever: mention Obama. People here love him like a son and he has become an almost myth-like figure. People confidently tell me that he's "an African" and "one of us" despite his white mother and the fact he grew up in Indonesia and Hawaii (both of which are certainly not Uganda).
Anyways, there are numerous funny stories concerning Obama, but I thought this one was good. Last weekend I was attending a function for my organization and there were a handful of local politicians bumming about, smooching with the locals. One approached me (he is a candidate for mayor) and we starting talking. Of course Obama came up in our conversation and the man asked me why I supported him. I started explaining about Obama's work for the poor as a community organizer, that I tend to lean democratic in my politics, and that he an inspirational figure. The man stopped me halfway through, pulled our his phone, turned on its video setting, and then asked me to begin again. He went on to record my longer-than-necessary answer to his question.
Why he wanted a videotape of some Mzungu he had never met and will never meet again I don't know. But I imagine it was fun for him to have a videotape of a "real American" saying why he supported Obama.
Another thing that has surprised me (although it probably shouldn't have) is how Ugandan English is different from U.S. English. For example, here, my home state is not pronounced "O-HI-O" but rather "O-HE-O". Luganda pronounces the letters "h-i" as "he". So if I say I'm from O-hi-o people look confused. But if I say O-he-o, they understand.
Also, the way Ugandans eat reminds me of Hobbits. Every day I have breakfast, morning tea, lunch, afternoon tea, and then supper. The food tastes good (for the most part. I'm not a fan of eggplant with fish that still are staring at you) but in quantities that just are not possible to eat. Over the past few weeks I have learned that it is just not possible for me to clean my plate (meanwhile, i get to watch Ugandans around me devour everything in sight...) The Ugandans always laugh, but they seem to accept that I'm a Mzungu and can't eat as much
My organization is very kind to me and I don't think they see the irony of this but there is this nice plastic porch-table type chair that they always bring out for me to sit in. Nice of them to do, but it happens to be the only white object among their many stools, benches, and chairs. Giving the white guy a white chair to sit in? Sometimes I wonder if it is as funny to them as it is to me...
Today Ivy waved to me when I left the house. She has come a long way from screaming bloody murder when I arrived.
A 6 foot long tree branch fell today during lunch, crushing my neighbors food. Because it was a bowl of not too tasty green eggplant sauce with fishes with beady eyes I was a bit disappointed it didn't land in mine...
I think I will go try to catch some pool with Caesar. Sula Bulunge!
Anyways, there are numerous funny stories concerning Obama, but I thought this one was good. Last weekend I was attending a function for my organization and there were a handful of local politicians bumming about, smooching with the locals. One approached me (he is a candidate for mayor) and we starting talking. Of course Obama came up in our conversation and the man asked me why I supported him. I started explaining about Obama's work for the poor as a community organizer, that I tend to lean democratic in my politics, and that he an inspirational figure. The man stopped me halfway through, pulled our his phone, turned on its video setting, and then asked me to begin again. He went on to record my longer-than-necessary answer to his question.
Why he wanted a videotape of some Mzungu he had never met and will never meet again I don't know. But I imagine it was fun for him to have a videotape of a "real American" saying why he supported Obama.
Another thing that has surprised me (although it probably shouldn't have) is how Ugandan English is different from U.S. English. For example, here, my home state is not pronounced "O-HI-O" but rather "O-HE-O". Luganda pronounces the letters "h-i" as "he". So if I say I'm from O-hi-o people look confused. But if I say O-he-o, they understand.
Also, the way Ugandans eat reminds me of Hobbits. Every day I have breakfast, morning tea, lunch, afternoon tea, and then supper. The food tastes good (for the most part. I'm not a fan of eggplant with fish that still are staring at you) but in quantities that just are not possible to eat. Over the past few weeks I have learned that it is just not possible for me to clean my plate (meanwhile, i get to watch Ugandans around me devour everything in sight...) The Ugandans always laugh, but they seem to accept that I'm a Mzungu and can't eat as much
My organization is very kind to me and I don't think they see the irony of this but there is this nice plastic porch-table type chair that they always bring out for me to sit in. Nice of them to do, but it happens to be the only white object among their many stools, benches, and chairs. Giving the white guy a white chair to sit in? Sometimes I wonder if it is as funny to them as it is to me...
Today Ivy waved to me when I left the house. She has come a long way from screaming bloody murder when I arrived.
A 6 foot long tree branch fell today during lunch, crushing my neighbors food. Because it was a bowl of not too tasty green eggplant sauce with fishes with beady eyes I was a bit disappointed it didn't land in mine...
I think I will go try to catch some pool with Caesar. Sula Bulunge!
Monday, June 30, 2008
No Malaria Yet...
But I have succeeded in getting Mango Flies. These fun creatures apparently love to lay eggs in clothes as they are drying. The larvae then find juicy meat (my lower back) and then make themselves a home. I was host to three such creatures until about two hours ago when a kind doctor removed them. Of course I asked to see them, and trust me they were pretty disgusting. The biggest on was the size of my pointer finger-nail and about 1/3 of the width. Not very comforting to know that these critters had made my back their home, but fortunately there is no lasting damage.
Last week at Skills Plus, I conducted a needs assessment of the organization, trying to note both its strengths and weaknesses. This week I have begun creating a work plan to deal with what I have perceived as areas where I can help the organization. I think I will be helping them create databases of their clients and and excel spreadsheets of their finances (they now have poorly kept records that it would take forever to answer a question as simple as how many people are currently in their computer program?)
I will be personally helping to create these items as well as training people in how to create and maintain them. I also hope to hold a grant writing workshop and leave print materials that will help the organization apply for grants in the future. The organization has many good programs and seems to have its head on its shoulders but it lacks finances in every area. Being able to document what they do and successfully apply for grants will help them tremendously.
The two Kadama kids have slowly taken a liking to me. Ivy (8 months) at first was terrified of me because I don't think she had ever seen a white person before. I think she thought I was a monster. But she is warming up to me now and really enjoys playing with my pens and pieces of paper. Evan, 3.5, (pronounced Ivan. In Lusoga they pronounce 'e' as 'i') practically worships me, but he speaks English worse that I speak Lusoga. I think he at first thought I spoke Lusoga too because I would greet the family in Lusoga. He loves to jabber to me in Lusoga, but I have no idea what he is saying. I know he likes me because he tries to imitate literally everything I do from taking anti-malarial pills (I stopped him), to reading books (he can't speak English much less read the books I brought), to writing in a notebook (I gave him a sheet of paper...he's too little to write).
I found out today that Notre Dame has truly invaded Uganda. There are four former Notre Dame students living in my village working with the congregation of the Holy Cross in Bugembe. I know them through people (mostly Mangulo), but I think people know Patrick Corrigan? I don't, but he is apparently nearby with three others. They have been in Uganda for one year and are staying for one more. I'm sure I will run into them again.
I need to go, Caesar is done with pool and I need to head back to the house. Sula Bulunge!
Last week at Skills Plus, I conducted a needs assessment of the organization, trying to note both its strengths and weaknesses. This week I have begun creating a work plan to deal with what I have perceived as areas where I can help the organization. I think I will be helping them create databases of their clients and and excel spreadsheets of their finances (they now have poorly kept records that it would take forever to answer a question as simple as how many people are currently in their computer program?)
I will be personally helping to create these items as well as training people in how to create and maintain them. I also hope to hold a grant writing workshop and leave print materials that will help the organization apply for grants in the future. The organization has many good programs and seems to have its head on its shoulders but it lacks finances in every area. Being able to document what they do and successfully apply for grants will help them tremendously.
The two Kadama kids have slowly taken a liking to me. Ivy (8 months) at first was terrified of me because I don't think she had ever seen a white person before. I think she thought I was a monster. But she is warming up to me now and really enjoys playing with my pens and pieces of paper. Evan, 3.5, (pronounced Ivan. In Lusoga they pronounce 'e' as 'i') practically worships me, but he speaks English worse that I speak Lusoga. I think he at first thought I spoke Lusoga too because I would greet the family in Lusoga. He loves to jabber to me in Lusoga, but I have no idea what he is saying. I know he likes me because he tries to imitate literally everything I do from taking anti-malarial pills (I stopped him), to reading books (he can't speak English much less read the books I brought), to writing in a notebook (I gave him a sheet of paper...he's too little to write).
I found out today that Notre Dame has truly invaded Uganda. There are four former Notre Dame students living in my village working with the congregation of the Holy Cross in Bugembe. I know them through people (mostly Mangulo), but I think people know Patrick Corrigan? I don't, but he is apparently nearby with three others. They have been in Uganda for one year and are staying for one more. I'm sure I will run into them again.
I need to go, Caesar is done with pool and I need to head back to the house. Sula Bulunge!
Friday, June 27, 2008
Mzungu...Bye!
Probably one of the funniest/most fun parts of my morning walk to work is passing by the many children of the village. These little kids seem to love seing a silly white person wandering by their homes and they run after me chanting Mzungu (means European or white person). Also, they try to say whatever english they know and for the little ones the only english they know is the word "bye". The ones a bit older know "how are you". So it is very common to see little kids jumping about chanting Mzungu...Bye! or Mzungu, Mzungu, how are you? The kids are adorable so I don't mind. I can't really hide so I need to accept that I stand out.
At work, power was on for the first time on Thursday, so I got to see some of the computer class taught by my organization. It's pretty interesting as they have classes on Word, Excel, Powerpoint, Publisher, and Access. My supervisor likes to blast american music because he is young (2 days older than me) and basically loves the U.S. However his taste is a bit questionable as so far I have only heard country music and bad pop songs. I taught him how to create a blog so now the organization has a blog : http://www.skillsplusuganda.blogspot.com/
He hasn't done any updating as of this posting, so don't expect much of anything. But maybe someday...
No Malaria yet, which is good. I ate sugarcane for the first time yesterday. And I was asked if there were mosquitos in the U.S. African tea is growing on me, though I am still not a fan of the meat or fish. Posho ne envuluga is delicious. as is Chapati.
At work, power was on for the first time on Thursday, so I got to see some of the computer class taught by my organization. It's pretty interesting as they have classes on Word, Excel, Powerpoint, Publisher, and Access. My supervisor likes to blast american music because he is young (2 days older than me) and basically loves the U.S. However his taste is a bit questionable as so far I have only heard country music and bad pop songs. I taught him how to create a blog so now the organization has a blog : http://www.skillsplusuganda.blogspot.com/
He hasn't done any updating as of this posting, so don't expect much of anything. But maybe someday...
No Malaria yet, which is good. I ate sugarcane for the first time yesterday. And I was asked if there were mosquitos in the U.S. African tea is growing on me, though I am still not a fan of the meat or fish. Posho ne envuluga is delicious. as is Chapati.
Tuesday, June 24, 2008
osibye otya ssebo?
Everything is good and well in Uganda. I have settled into the village of Bugembe with a very nice family, the Kadama's. Caesar is the husband, Lydia the wife, and they have two kids Evan (3.5) and Ivy (8 months). It is a bit different from Columbus, but it is home for the next eight weeks. My house is without basic services (electricity, indoor plumbing, running water) but mostly because the family is renovating the house. They were building the home slowly over the past five years and when it was close to finished they moved in, even though it didn't have everything. However, there is power maybe 200 yards from the house - Caesar said that they need 3 more power line polls for it to reach his house at a cost of maybe 2.5 million Ugandan shillings (i think its 1700 USH to a Dollar).
The food is good but very different. Lots of starches including Matooke (cooked mashed bananas), Posho, rice, and Cassava. They are literally throwing food at me, so I don't know if I will meet my Dad's prediction of losing weight while in Uganda.
My internship has started well, though it has been frustrating at times. My first day I was handed a two page sheet where I was addressed as "your honor". It went on to describe some of the things the board of trustees felt I could accomplish during my 8 week internship. It was a bit of insanity as things ranged from "Address the issue of the homeless" to "seek and tap some American celebrities to visit our website and the organization". Needless to say much of the first day was spent with me explaining that these are just not possible for me to do. I have skills but I am not a miracle worker. This leads into another issue that I am often given much more respect and credit than I deserve. Because I'm from the U.S., people automatically assume an an expert on everything, which is just not true.
I watched the Uganda vs. Angola football match yesterday. It ended in a 0-0 tie but I watched it in a local "cinema", where there was a TV smaller than the one in our living room and probably there was 75 people packed in a room meant for 40. It was good though.
Oh, I almost forgot. You can call me if you wish. my cell phone is 0773707675.
Also, My dad is now blogging about chess. here is his blog: http://www.jeromegambit.blogspot.com/
The food is good but very different. Lots of starches including Matooke (cooked mashed bananas), Posho, rice, and Cassava. They are literally throwing food at me, so I don't know if I will meet my Dad's prediction of losing weight while in Uganda.
My internship has started well, though it has been frustrating at times. My first day I was handed a two page sheet where I was addressed as "your honor". It went on to describe some of the things the board of trustees felt I could accomplish during my 8 week internship. It was a bit of insanity as things ranged from "Address the issue of the homeless" to "seek and tap some American celebrities to visit our website and the organization". Needless to say much of the first day was spent with me explaining that these are just not possible for me to do. I have skills but I am not a miracle worker. This leads into another issue that I am often given much more respect and credit than I deserve. Because I'm from the U.S., people automatically assume an an expert on everything, which is just not true.
I watched the Uganda vs. Angola football match yesterday. It ended in a 0-0 tie but I watched it in a local "cinema", where there was a TV smaller than the one in our living room and probably there was 75 people packed in a room meant for 40. It was good though.
Oh, I almost forgot. You can call me if you wish. my cell phone is 0773707675.
Also, My dad is now blogging about chess. here is his blog: http://www.jeromegambit.blogspot.com/
Monday, June 23, 2008
Bugembe
Well, I'm in Uganda. I've been here for about 9 days, since the 14th. The food is good, though the meat is very chewy. Chapati is a poor man's naan, but it's pretty good. Matooke is good as well, especially with g-nut sauce. and no, that is not meant to be raunchy.
I am staying with a very kind family, the Kadamas. The Father, Caesar can't be older than 30. He has a very high pitched laugh and loves to play pool. I went to the pool hall by the night market and it was packed with maybe 15-20 Ugandans all focused on the sole table. I put some money down and everyone thought it was hilarious that I wanted to play. When I actually won the first game the entire room was buzzing that a "mzungu" could play pool. When I won the second I heard comments that "they play ok pool in America". Then I went and lost the third. But I think I won their respect. I will see them again.
No sickness yet. No Malaria. I did take a boat/hike trip by the Nile at a place called Bujagali Falls. I also took my first bucket bath by candlelight. It was good.
The soil in Uganda is very very red. My tennis shoes are becoming red as a result.
No salsa so far. I am still searching.
The night market in Bugembe is excellent. Confusing Lusoga words with Lugandan makes me feel stupid at times.
I will try to update more. Jinja is fun and a bit of a tourist town.
I am staying with a very kind family, the Kadamas. The Father, Caesar can't be older than 30. He has a very high pitched laugh and loves to play pool. I went to the pool hall by the night market and it was packed with maybe 15-20 Ugandans all focused on the sole table. I put some money down and everyone thought it was hilarious that I wanted to play. When I actually won the first game the entire room was buzzing that a "mzungu" could play pool. When I won the second I heard comments that "they play ok pool in America". Then I went and lost the third. But I think I won their respect. I will see them again.
No sickness yet. No Malaria. I did take a boat/hike trip by the Nile at a place called Bujagali Falls. I also took my first bucket bath by candlelight. It was good.
The soil in Uganda is very very red. My tennis shoes are becoming red as a result.
No salsa so far. I am still searching.
The night market in Bugembe is excellent. Confusing Lusoga words with Lugandan makes me feel stupid at times.
I will try to update more. Jinja is fun and a bit of a tourist town.
Wednesday, June 11, 2008
London!
After a delightful couple of flights (Columbus to O'Hare, O'Hare to Heathrow), I arrived in London at the pleasant hour of 5:30 AM local time. London is awesome, but I forgot that jet lag is not. I think I can say with confidence that I am going to sleep very well tonight.
I met an older lady on my flight from Columbus to O'Hare who is Swedish and is visiting her parents in Sweden (with her two kids) for five weeks. She was quite friendly, talking about the "midnight sun" and other craziness that happens in Sweden.
Today I went to mass for the first time in six months. Westminster Abbey usually charges a nine pounds for visitors to enter, but the daily 8 AM service is free of charge. The inside is pretty sweet, full of very ornate decorations and sculptures. Anglican seems pretty similar to Catholic.
Tomorrow I'm meeting up with two of the other FSD (Foundation for Sustainable Development...if you are interested?) interns. I have no idea what will happen then, but it should be good.
I'm too tired to read and I can't check into my hostel until later, so I've basically been wandering all day. Which is good. Because I really like wandering.
Peace,
Jon
ps. my dad finds the strangest websites: http://www.ucf.co.ug/
I met an older lady on my flight from Columbus to O'Hare who is Swedish and is visiting her parents in Sweden (with her two kids) for five weeks. She was quite friendly, talking about the "midnight sun" and other craziness that happens in Sweden.
Today I went to mass for the first time in six months. Westminster Abbey usually charges a nine pounds for visitors to enter, but the daily 8 AM service is free of charge. The inside is pretty sweet, full of very ornate decorations and sculptures. Anglican seems pretty similar to Catholic.
Tomorrow I'm meeting up with two of the other FSD (Foundation for Sustainable Development...if you are interested?) interns. I have no idea what will happen then, but it should be good.
I'm too tired to read and I can't check into my hostel until later, so I've basically been wandering all day. Which is good. Because I really like wandering.
Peace,
Jon
ps. my dad finds the strangest websites: http://www.ucf.co.ug/
Monday, June 9, 2008
Columbus (for now...)
Columbus has been my home for much of my 22 years and it has been especially kind over the last three weeks. My favorite pizza place (Hound Dogs!) made an especially delicious Smokin' Joes pizza, I visited the neighborhood landmark (Smith's Deli) for some for some rather tasty Stromboli, and I walked the walk to a nearby UDF (United Dairy Farmers...It's like a 7-eleven but better. don't judge) for some really good Blue Moo Cookie Dough Ice Cream. All this in only three weeks. Columbus rarely dissapoints.
Anyways, tomorrow I leave the country for the first time in six years. London awaits early Wednesday morning and Uganda is just lurking in the distance (Saturday morning).
I am pretty excited, though its nothing quite like my excitement about my four-week attempt at growing a beard. Here are the results:
Anyways, tomorrow I leave the country for the first time in six years. London awaits early Wednesday morning and Uganda is just lurking in the distance (Saturday morning).
I am pretty excited, though its nothing quite like my excitement about my four-week attempt at growing a beard. Here are the results:
Sad? Perhaps. I realize that I look goofy but the beard will be staying for much of the summer. It's easier not to shave when you don't have running water.
I'll try to post something when I'm in London, but I can't promise much.
Peace,
JBK
ps. Here is the website for the organization I'm interning with: http://skillsplusuganda.tripod.com/background.html
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